Gastronomic heritage
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THE OLDEST CAFÉ IN PARIS AND THE STORY OF ICE CREAM / Discover how ice cream helped a young Italian establish a cafe in 1686 that was frequented by Voltaire, Rousseau, Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Jefferson, Danton and Robespierre.
‘GIVE US THIS DAY OUR DAILY BREAD’: HOW GRAIN SILOS IMPROVED FOOD SECURITY IN ANCIENT TIMES / The sixth line from the Lord’s Prayer asks God to provide us with the essentials that keep body and soul together. Long before those words were written, our distant ancestors took more practical steps to reduce the risk of dying of starvation in troubled times. A key part of their survival strategy was the silo.
BURNT OFFERINGS PROVIDE A RARE INSIGHT INTO THE MEDIEVAL DIET / Analysis of culinary remains – burnt and unburnt – that were discovered in a mountain village in the Montagne Noire provides a fascinating insight into what people were eating seven or eight centuries ago.
AN ARTIST IN THE KITCHEN / Did you know Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec was an accomplished cook as well as a great artist? Try one of his recipes.
OCCITAN GASTRONOMY ON THE GRANDEST SCALE / I have often written about the gastronomy of southern France, particularly from a historical angle, but never before have I devoted an entire article to a single restaurant. I am making an exception for Les Grands Buffets in Narbonne because it is an exceptional eatery in so many ways.
LIMOUX, WHERE THE CARNIVAL GOES WITH A FIZZ / The town of Limoux lies on the river Aude 25 kilometres upstream from Carcassonne. It has two claims to international fame: its carnival and its sparkling wine.
DISCOVER AND MAKE AN ELUSIVE DESSERT FROM THE SOUTH OF FRANCE / Today, it is rare to find the mesturet on the shelves of a boulangerie-pâtisserie or on a restaurant menu. This traditional dish is made almost exclusively at home. In many cases, the recipe is a closely-guarded family secret, but I can reveal my own unique version, based on oven-roasted butternut squash.
WHAT MAKES ROQUEFORT CHEESE BLUE (OR GREEN)? / Cheese is often associated with bread, either in a sandwich, on a croque monsieur, or during the cheese course at the end of a meal. With Roquefort, this connection is made long before the cheese reaches the gourmet’s plate, and the origin of this fortuitous alliance is the subject of another legend.
HOW DID LAUTREC GET ITS PINK GARLIC? / Exactly when pink garlic took root in Lautrec is unknown, and its miraculous appearance is, perhaps inevitably, the subject of a legend.
ROQUEFORT CHEESE – THE OLDEST FRENCH APPELLATION / This village in the south of France is famous for transforming ewe’s milk into blue cheese worth €350 million a year. Commercial success has left its mark on Roquefort, but not in a way you would expect. An interview with the mayor explains why nearly all the dwellings in his commune are uninhabited.
INTERVIEW WITH A LIVING LEGEND / Rugby fans of a certain age will remember the Spanghero brothers. Laurent played second row, but he brought fame to the family name through his career as a butcher. More recently, the King of Cassoulet has switched to making food products that are 100% vegetarian.
NOTES FROM THE NATURAL WINE FAIR AT DURBAN-CORBIÈRES / I spent yesterday exploring the world of natural wines at the Glouglou natural wine fair in Durban-Corbières. Most of the exhibitors were certified organic, but they have all gone much further in their quest to minimise the artificial techniques used in most modern wine production.
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