South of France, the Pyrenees and northern Spain
(latest to oldest articles)
Discover and make mesturets – an elusive dessert from the south of France
Today, it is rare to find the mesturet on the shelves of a boulangerie-pâtisserie or on a restaurant menu. This is a traditional dish made almost exclusively at home, and every ancient family seems to have its own recipe and continues to use it. In many cases, the recipe is a closely-guarded family secret, but I can reveal my own unique version, based on oven-roasted butternut squash.
A black day for French Protestants
On 16 October 1685, Louis XIV dispatched four companies of infantry to the town of Puylaurens, 45 kilometres to the east of Toulouse. Their mission? Demolish the Protestant temple and force the townsfolk to convert to Catholicism.
Poetry since 1324: the oldest literary institution in the western world
If you visit the parliament building of Toulouse – Le Capitole – you can enjoy many fine and extremely large paintings in the public rooms on its first floor. But on your way up the main staircase, take a moment to admire the painting in front of you. It depicts the first edition of the Floral Games, held in 1324.
Hôtel d’Assézat: a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture
How did Pierre Assézat become so rich, he could begin building one of the finest Renaissance mansions in Toulouse? And why did he run out of money halfway through the project? Discover the ups and downs of the pastel trade and the damaging effects of the Wars of Religion.
The ruins of Liantran: discover one of the oldest pastoral settlements in the Pyrenees
THE RUINS OF LIANTRAN: DISCOVER ONE OF THE OLDEST PASTORAL SETTLEMENTS IN THE PYRENEES / Liantran has been used by shepherds for around 7,000 years, and it was surveyed by archaeologists for the first time in 2018. What they discovered makes Liantran one of the largest and most complex pastoral sites discovered in the Pyrenees.
Why are the Pyrenees called the Pyrenees?
WHY ARE THE PYRENEES CALLED THE PYRENEES? / This question has been debated since Classical times, and there is still no clear answer today. Back in the 16th century, the future King Henri IV of France thought he knew why. These mountains were called the Pyrenees because one of his ancestors had ravished a princess inside the cave of Lombrives.
Transhumance: the long walk home
TRANSHUMANCE: THE LONG WALK HOME / The word transhumance derives from two Latin words meaning across (trans) the ground (humus), and more precisely, it refers to a form of mobile livestock husbandry in which herders move their flocks regularly and repeatedly between defined seasonal grazing areas.
Pigeonniers: the inside story
PIGEONNIERS: THE INSIDE STORY / Arguably, no creature has had more beautiful homes built for it than the pigeon, and the 6,000 that remain in our region display an astonishing variety of shapes, sizes and styles. This raises an obvious question: why did so many people go to so much trouble to house a bird?
How did Lautrec get its pink garlic?
HOW DID LAUTREC GET ITS PINK GARLIC? / Exactly when pink garlic took root in Lautrec is unknown, and its miraculous appearance is, perhaps inevitably, the subject of a legend.
What makes Roquefort cheese blue (or green)?
WHAT MAKES ROQUEFORT CHEESE BLUE (OR GREEN)? / Cheese is often associated with bread, either in a sandwich, on a croque monsieur, or during the cheese course at the end of a meal. With Roquefort, this connection is made long before the cheese reaches the gourmet’s plate, and the origin of this fortuitous alliance is the subject of another legend.
Keys to the Château
KEYS TO THE CHÂTEAU / Writing is rarely a route to riches, but when Colin Duncan Taylor moved to France, he found it was a key that opened the door to many a château (article first published in French Property News).
War diary: 20 July 1944
WAR DIARY: 20 JULY 1944 / This is the story of a massive ground and air attack by the Germans on the Resistance camps of the Montagne Noire, including the subsequent report by the pro-Vichy gendarmes of Mazamet.
Louisa Paulin, Occitan poet, 1888-1944
LOUISA PAULIN, OCCITAN POET, 1888-1944 / Her work won several prizes, including an award from the oldest literary institution in the western world – the Acadèmia dels Jòcs Florals, or the Academy of the Floral Games, founded in 1323 by seven troubadour-citizens of Toulouse.
Roquefort cheese - the oldest French appellation
ROQUEFORT CHEESE – THE OLDEST FRENCH APPELLATION / This village in the south of France is famous for transforming ewe’s milk into blue cheese worth €350 million a year. Commercial success has left its mark on Roquefort, but not in a way you would expect. An interview with the mayor explains why nearly all the dwellings in his commune are uninhabited.
On the ice house trail in the Montagne Noire
ON THE ICE HOUSE TRAIL IN THE MONTAGNE NOIRE / Pradelles-Cabardès lies just below the highest point of the Montagne Noire – the Pic de Nor. A century ago, this tiny mountain village dominated the ice industry in our region. The best way to grasp the scale of this enterprise is to take a stroll along Le Sentier des Glacières (The Icehouse Trail).