South of France, the Pyrenees and northern Spain

(latest to oldest articles)

Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

Occitan gastronomy on the grandest scale

I have often written about the gastronomy of southern France, particularly from a historical angle, but never before have I devoted an entire article to a single restaurant. I am making an exception for Les Grands Buffets in Narbonne because it is an exceptional eatery in so many ways.

Read More
Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

In the footsteps of Dom Robert

Dom Robert’s tapestries were inspired by nature in general and the Montagne Noire in particular. This country hike visits 11 viewpoints associated with his work.

Read More
Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

Biarritz, La Rhune and Empress Eugénie

In 1859, Eugénie, wife of Emperor Napoleon III, climbed this mountain in grand style. She also did much to develop tourism in Biarritz, Eaux-Bonnes and other parts of the western Pyrenees. Most modern visitors climb the mountain with the help of the scenic mountain railway.

Read More
Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

Sacred, secret Pyrenees

I recently discovered a place which soothes the soul in these troubled times, a remote village where the church is unlocked and the bijou museum opens its doors at the touch of a button to reveal its treasures, a place with breathtaking views of Pyrenean peaks. 

Read More
Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

A family stroll through prehistory in the Pyrenees

One of my favourite short walks in the Cerdagne is a five-kilometre balade néolithique, or Stone Age stroll, around the village of Eyne. As well as fine views of the Pyrenees, visitors of all ages will be astonished to discover such a wide range of ancient monuments in such a short distance. To help make sense of it all, the tourist office has erected a well-written and nicely-illustrated information board at each of nine stops along the route.

Read More
Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

A tale of buried treasure and marketing genius

The mysteries of Rennes-le-Château have inspired enough books to open a bookshop. At the root of this phenomenol success was a master of creative marketing who had a brainwave in 1956.

Read More
Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

Religious pearls of the Montagne Noire

Discover a secret Protestant cemetery, a long-abandoned church, a bijou monastery reclaimed by the forest, and a rustic chapel which would be the perfect location for hobbits and wood elves if they were organising a wedding.

Read More
Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

The pig farmer, the Roman tilemaker and Napoleon’s companion in exile

Most people visiting Las Cases barely glance at the château. Instead, they dive straight inside the farm shop to buy dried hams, sausages or fresh pork. But before the Malinge family started making charcuterie, Las Cases had enjoyed a curious succession of occupants. 

Read More
Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

Which is the most southerly French department?

Although it lies 9,000-kilometre south of Paris in the Indian Ocean, the volcanic island of La Réunion is a true French department, making it the most far-flung corner of the European Union.

Read More
Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

How Wellington finally laid his hands on Napoleon’s greatest general

Soult and Wellington never met face-to-face during all the years they spent fighting each other in Portugal, Spain, France and Belgium. But according to a tale I was told during a visit to the Château de Soult-Berg, this long-overdue encounter took place at the coronation of Queen Victoria in London.

Read More
Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

So many reasons to visit Naurouze, not far from Toulouse

​Naurouze is one of those places that seems to attract legends and history, as well as being notable from a geological and geographic perspective. It is located south-east of Toulouse, conveniently close to the main road between Villefranche-de-Lauragais and Castelnaudary.

Read More
Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

Who won the Battle of Toulouse, 10 April 1814?

The Battle of Toulouse 1814 between the armies of Wellington and Soult would never have taken place if a couple of colonels from Paris had ridden their horses a little faster.

Read More