South of France, the Pyrenees and northern Spain
(latest to oldest articles)
How far to Montfa?
Discover the connection between this castle and the artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.
An artist in the kitchen
Did you know Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec was an accomplished cook as well as a great artist? Try one of his recipes.
Take a ride to the top of the world and discover the Pic du Midi
There are five Pics du Midi in the Pyrenees. The one from Bigorre is undoubtedly the easiest to reach, and it offers a combination of scientific interest and stunning views of the mountains.
Romans, Christians and Saints
A stroll through the Roman ruins of Lugdunum Convenarum and up to the cathedral of Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges on its hilltop allows us to visualise the transition from worshipping Roman and pagan gods to embracing Christianity.
King Wamba and the Castle of the Vultures
Discover a remote castle with splendid views and read the story of a rebellion against the last great king of the Visigoths.
Occitan gastronomy on the grandest scale
I have often written about the gastronomy of southern France, particularly from a historical angle, but never before have I devoted an entire article to a single restaurant. I am making an exception for Les Grands Buffets in Narbonne because it is an exceptional eatery in so many ways.
In the footsteps of Dom Robert
Dom Robert’s tapestries were inspired by nature in general and the Montagne Noire in particular. This country hike visits 11 viewpoints associated with his work.
Biarritz, La Rhune and Empress Eugénie
In 1859, Eugénie, wife of Emperor Napoleon III, climbed this mountain in grand style. She also did much to develop tourism in Biarritz, Eaux-Bonnes and other parts of the western Pyrenees. Most modern visitors climb the mountain with the help of the scenic mountain railway.
Sacred, secret Pyrenees
I recently discovered a place which soothes the soul in these troubled times, a remote village where the church is unlocked and the bijou museum opens its doors at the touch of a button to reveal its treasures, a place with breathtaking views of Pyrenean peaks.
A family stroll through prehistory in the Pyrenees
One of my favourite short walks in the Cerdagne is a five-kilometre balade néolithique, or Stone Age stroll, around the village of Eyne. As well as fine views of the Pyrenees, visitors of all ages will be astonished to discover such a wide range of ancient monuments in such a short distance. To help make sense of it all, the tourist office has erected a well-written and nicely-illustrated information board at each of nine stops along the route.
Forteresse de Salses: discovering history on the autoroutes of France
An autoroute rest area with a difference: discover the Forteresse de Salses, built in 1497, besieged many times until it was made redundant in 1659 by the Treaty of the Pyrenees which moved the border 40 kilometres further south.
Wearing woad, Napoleon and a charity for sick children
Discover how 19th-century blockades by the British led to Napoleon's attempt to resurrect woad, or pastel.
A tale of buried treasure and marketing genius
The mysteries of Rennes-le-Château have inspired enough books to open a bookshop. At the root of this phenomenol success was a master of creative marketing who had a brainwave in 1956.
Religious pearls of the Montagne Noire
Discover a secret Protestant cemetery, a long-abandoned church, a bijou monastery reclaimed by the forest, and a rustic chapel which would be the perfect location for hobbits and wood elves if they were organising a wedding.
The pig farmer, the Roman tilemaker and Napoleon’s companion in exile
Most people visiting Las Cases barely glance at the château. Instead, they dive straight inside the farm shop to buy dried hams, sausages or fresh pork. But before the Malinge family started making charcuterie, Las Cases had enjoyed a curious succession of occupants.