South of France, the Pyrenees and northern Spain

(latest to oldest articles)

Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

A dramatic tomb for a forgotten playwright

With a poet’s eye for drama, Henry Bataille knew exactly how he wanted to be buried. Although his dramatic output has passed into oblivion, his tomb is unforgettable. It may even give you nightmares.

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Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

From brigand to metal-basher: explore the copper industry of Durfort

At the foot of the Montagne Noire, the village of Durfort devoted itself to copper for six centuries. Today, one or two shops still offer traditional wares, a copper vessel hangs outside nearly every house, and the village council has recently signposted a 3.5km walk along the river where trip hammers once thumped lumps of copper into shape.

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Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

How far to Montfa?

Discover the connection between this castle and the artist Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.

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Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

An artist in the kitchen

Did you know Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec was an accomplished cook as well as a great artist? Try one of his recipes.

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Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

Romans, Christians and Saints

A stroll through the Roman ruins of Lugdunum Convenarum and up to the cathedral of Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges on its hilltop allows us to visualise the transition from worshipping Roman and pagan gods to embracing Christianity.

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Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

Occitan gastronomy on the grandest scale

I have often written about the gastronomy of southern France, particularly from a historical angle, but never before have I devoted an entire article to a single restaurant. I am making an exception for Les Grands Buffets in Narbonne because it is an exceptional eatery in so many ways.

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Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

In the footsteps of Dom Robert

Dom Robert’s tapestries were inspired by nature in general and the Montagne Noire in particular. This country hike visits 11 viewpoints associated with his work.

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Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

Biarritz, La Rhune and Empress Eugénie

In 1859, Eugénie, wife of Emperor Napoleon III, climbed this mountain in grand style. She also did much to develop tourism in Biarritz, Eaux-Bonnes and other parts of the western Pyrenees. Most modern visitors climb the mountain with the help of the scenic mountain railway.

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Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

Sacred, secret Pyrenees

I recently discovered a place which soothes the soul in these troubled times, a remote village where the church is unlocked and the bijou museum opens its doors at the touch of a button to reveal its treasures, a place with breathtaking views of Pyrenean peaks. 

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Colin Duncan Taylor Colin Duncan Taylor

A family stroll through prehistory in the Pyrenees

One of my favourite short walks in the Cerdagne is a five-kilometre balade néolithique, or Stone Age stroll, around the village of Eyne. As well as fine views of the Pyrenees, visitors of all ages will be astonished to discover such a wide range of ancient monuments in such a short distance. To help make sense of it all, the tourist office has erected a well-written and nicely-illustrated information board at each of nine stops along the route.

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